Manali. That’s what a friend told me. “We’re planning to ride to Manali. Chalega?” I wanted to go but due to the fact that I own a dilapidated Discover 125, I declined. I love Laajwanti (or Laajo, my bike) and I have never ridden her at more than 60kph. AK Hangal can run faster than that on NH1. I just can’t do this to her.
Couple of more factors – I want to ride to Ladakh, and I need a new bike (for the same). I finalized on RE-TBTS (ok, Royal Enfield Thunderbird Twin Spark). Had a test ride, and loved it. More importantly, wife loved it. Now the only thing to do is to buy it, for that I am waiting for money to fall off the trees.
So when I was offered a friend’s TBTS for the ride, I agreed instantly. It will be the best test ride one could ever get. My brother, Peeyush (yeah, with a double ‘e’), also came to Delhi for a visit without a clue of what going to happen to his itinerary (I convinced him to join the ride). In the end, things took an unfortunate turn – we were not able to find a bike for Peeyush, and the TBTS promised to me was not delivered. I guess the guy was having second thoughts about giving his bike to someone else, I don’t blame him.
Majboori ka naam Gandhiji, literally. Jeetender Singh Gandhi, a friend of mine, offered to give me his Avenger, it was a little old but looked sturdy, so I took the offer.
D-day - 9th Dec
We were supposed to leave at 10pm. During the day, I and Peeyush went to Karolbagh for some final shopping for warm clothes and bike spare parts. He was not at all in favor of riding to Manali, kept pestering me about the dangers, the possible fog and the cold, not to mention that NH1 has a hundred diversions between Panipat and Ambala. I smiled wondering what would happen when he comes to know about it.
At 10:15pm, finally, all of us left my apartment for the journey. There were four of us:
- NJ on his P220F
- Shivam on his P150
- I and Peeyush on Avenger 180
We decided Sukhdev dhaba at Murthal to be our meeting point – it would have been quite difficult to ride alongside each other in Delhi traffic – and dine there. It took us around an hour to get out of Delhi and reach the border. As soon as we crossed over into Sonipat, fog hit us. Visibility was less than ten meters, first my helmet visor fogged out within five minutes, then my glasses in the next five minutes. I was out of tears in the next ten minutes. I could hear Peeyush reciting Hamuman Chalisa behind me. It took us an hour to reach Sukhdev dhaba, fifteen kilometers away.
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| Peeyush, Shivam and me |
We took our time there, had some rum, ate leisurely, wasting as much time as we can. We all knew that there was at least six hours to morning light – we can’t stay there for six hours, and as the fog was getting worse, it was dangerous to ride further. It was then someone proposed about an alternate destination – Shimla. We decided to finalize our location once we reach Ambala.
The first leg
The next five hours were absolute hell. NJ was riding at front because he had the best headlights, Shivam was sweeping because he had hazard lights, and we were in the middle because we had none. The fog got worse but luckily, we found a mini-truck, with lots of loud and vulgar luminescent stickers pasted on its back, cruising at around sixty, and followed it till Karnal. Then I heard a weird sound coming from the rear tire, as if it was rubbing against something. During the next butt-break, I mentioned this problem to everybody. NJ didn’t found anything wrong when he test drove for a couple of hundred meters, so he offered to ride on the Avenger. Next thing I knew, I was riding his Pulsar. Peeyush was riding pillion with Shivam and NJ on my bike. NJ got separated from us after Karnal toll plaza and rode ahead. For the next three hours, I followed Shivam’s hazard lights – come what may – at speeds ranging from fifteen to fifty kph. The diversions went from bad to worse. We avoided a fall off the road at one of those. Stopping every hour for butt-breaks, we noticed the eerie silence and darkness all around us. Every minute passed with me regretting my decision to ride in this weather.
It was pure relief when I saw a signage declaring Ambala eighteen kilometers away (due to road construction, most of the overhead signages were removed from the highway). I called for a butt-break and luckily during our stop we got a call from NJ informing us that he has reached Ambala Cantt railway station and asked us to come there. We left the desolate place with renewed enegy, reaching Ambala after thirty odd minutes. It was six in the morning. Eight hours. Fuck.
Destinations
Ambala is NJ’s hometown. He hasn’t told his parents about this trip. He would have been shouted at/cried at/emotionally blackmailed to death. So naturally he disguised himself (there was no need to, as we were already covered from head to toe in two to five layers of clothing). He took us to a chai shop to relax and to pass out another hour of darkness left. Manali was now out of question – it would take at least twelve hours of riding to reach there (provided all went well). Shimla was considered, but it would be swarming with terrorists, oops, tourists. Finally we decided on Chail, a quaint, little town near Shimla. At seven, we quit the chai shop and decided to have breakfast – the famous poori-sabzi of Ambala. At eight, after those yummy pooris, we left NJ’s hometown, destination – Chail.
Stage two
Riding on Ambala-Chandigarh expressway was fun. Although there was fog, but at least there was daylight. The problem with the rear tire persisted – it was annoying. Took right from Zirakpur towards Panchkula. Last time I was here, it was a nightmare with diversions full of traffic jams. This time the road was an absolutely amazing four lane highway. En route, we stopped at a mechanic and rectified the problem with the bike – it turned out to be a loose chain. Also, I changed the engine oil and the spark plugs. Then began the part we’ve all been waiting for – the mountains. I was riding slowly till now while NJ and Shivam were cruising throughout, now I’ll show them how to ride in the mountains. After a kilometer, I fell down. Negotiating a turn and a stupid driver backing his car, I braked hard and, being new to the technology of disc brakes, couldn’t control the bike and fell sideways. Thankfully, everyone was ahead of me so nobody saw me falling off. Rested for a couple of minutes and then took off again.
Riding in mountains is completely different from riding in plains. For a start, you need to be extra alert. Second, maneuvering the bends at optimum speed is difficult. I always went very slowly on bends and then when I started to accelerate, another one came. Third, beware of vehicles with number plates starting with HP. They drive at maniacal speeds adamant to crush anyone who comes in front of them. Cars and jeeps are bad enough, but Gods have mercy on you if it’s a truck or bus.
We reached Dharampur. By now, our butts were starting to burn. The Interior Ministry of Large Intestine was creating tremendous pressure – not helping at all. It actually helped in creating a fuck-you attitude inside myself towards every driver coming my way. Suddenly, in search of a decent toilet, I was riding at speeds in excess of sixty kph. The HP-ism of drivers disappeared when I blew horns in return and refused to side away for oncoming vehicles. The next twenty kilometers to Solan passed away in a blur. I spotted a Domino’s in Solan and wondered if it had a toilet. I waited for other three to come (they were left far behind as I sped away on my quest). To my surprise, they arrived after fifteen minutes – I went that far ahead of them.
We all needed a butt-break, we all were hungry, we decided to check if there’s a toilet in there and if yes, eat.
The final push
After jamming the sewers of Solan, I ate the worst pizza of my life. Came out of the eatery and had the following conversation with the guard:
Me: “Bhaiya ye Chail ke liye kidhar se jayenge?”
Guard: “Seedhe jaiye, fir Kandaghat se right le lena.”
Me: “Kitni duur padega?”
Guard: “15 kilometer duur Kandaghat hai, wahaan se 5-7 kilometer Chail hai.”
A wave of relief sped through all of us – just twenty odd kilometers left! Few meters after starting, we noticed a milestone declaring Kandaghat seventeen kilometers away – fair enough. But when Kandaghat was less than a kilometer away, and I can see the right turn to Solan, my eyes found another signage indicating Chail at thirty kilometers! We all cursed the guard in the same breath. We took a butt-break below the signage for five minutes, and prepared ourselves for the final push.
Road from there was narrow single lane. Extra care was required at a time when we had been riding for almost seventeen hours. Butts were literally on fire now; we had to take breaks at almost every twenty minutes.
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| Saala, abhi bahut duur jana hai. |
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| The bikes |
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| Spot NJ (Hint: look for a dog) |
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| Bhikhaari |
Chail was only seven kilometers away when disaster struck. I was riding pillion with NJ (Peeyush was riding my bike), when I asked him to stop to let others catch us. The truth was, I needed another butt-break (funny how every time I asked for it, NJ obliged promptly). We smelled something burning after getting off the bike. To our horror, the smell was coming from the bike. Almost at the same time, Shivam came and stopped when he saw us. We noticed the same smell coming from his bike too. The road from Sadhupul, thirteen kilometer before Chail, was a constant steep uphill climb. The P220 performed brilliantly on that stretch, accelerating easily on steep slopes, with two men onboard, but eventually got heated up. Five minutes later, we heard the engine of the Avenger, Peeyush’s face carrying expressions of frustration, fatigue and fear.
Peeyush: “Abe gaadi kharaab ho gai hai..!!”
NJ: “Kya hua?”
Peeyush: “Ajeeb si aawaz aa rahi hai. Aur kitna bhi race do, aage hi nai badh rahi.”
He was having the same problem – bike heated up, refusing to accelerate. We decided to wait until they all cooled down. It was frustrating to wait so close to our destination.
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| Not in a deep thought...trying to find mobile connection |
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| In a deep thought...waiting...for the bikes to cool down |
It took nearly half an hour for the bikes to cool down. We carried on.
Chail
Riding slowly, not putting too much pressure on the bikes, we reached Chail in another thirty minutes. Search for the hotel will have to wait. First, search for a liquor shop. We found one – bought some and started searching for a hotel. It took nearly two hours until we found a suitable hotel – light was fading and the temperature was dropping faster than drunken girls in stilettos. We crashed on the bed; I was afraid I’d fall asleep so I didn’t close my eyes. After an hour I dragged everybody to the restaurant for food and drinks. The restaurant had a terrace where a bonfire could be arranged. We decided to keep indoors – it was freezing out there. A Punjabi group – couple of sardars, couple of pseudo-sardars (dyed-gelled-spiked hair, manicured stubble) and some girls started the bonfire. An hour later, they were regretting their decision, but were too proud to show it. Occasionally, we went outside on the terrace and despite of five layers of clothing, I was shivering. GPS showed the temperature as minus two degrees. There was also a lunar eclipse in progress, which we watched mesmerized. After a couple of hours, we called it a day and went to sleep. Dozed off immediately.
Something clicked inside my stomach and my digestive system went for a toss. I had to wake up three times in the night and go to the loo. They shouldn’t put toilet jet streams in hill stations - my ass froze.
Next morning, everyone woke up late. After some bakar session and some breakfast, we decided to decide today’s itinerary. There was a national park nearby, but no one wanted to go there in this cold. Winter is the mating season for most animals – a wild gay dog could easily take NJ for a ride. We decided to Chail palace a miss – why would a person from Delhi (or Rajasthan) come so far to visit a palace? We then decided to go to the world’s highest cricket ground. It took another hour to get ready and go out. Bikes were freezing cold from the night; we could still se our butt-prints on the seats. It was another very steep climb to the cricket ground. But it was closed. We were only able to take some pictures.
While riding down, we saw directions to a temple and decided to go there – thank the Gods for our safe journey (and ask for some more of it). It was actually a temple complex with many mandirs of all the major Gods and Goddesses. Spent some time there and came back to the main market for lunch. It took two hours for the cook of the restaurant (who was also the owner), in the market, to prepare our lunch – it was pathetic nevertheless.
In the evening, we dared to arrange the bonfire – it wasn’t as chilly as the previous night.
Had some drinks and crashed to bed early – for an early start to home tomorrow.
The return - 12th Dec
We started at around 8:30am from the hotel. The ride back was quick – going down – and uneventful. My toes began hurting from cold wind – I feared frostbite – ridiculous. Within two hours, we crossed Solan, and two hours later we were back on the plains. I got separated from the group and was riding ahead of others. Our meeting point was a food joint in Karnal – Savoy Greens. We reached there at around four in the evening, had a late lunch and started for Delhi.
We rode leisurely from thereon and reached Delhi border by eight, punched the air and had a beer to celebrate. Dropped Peeyush at metro station and reached home at nine.
I couldn’t recognize my face in the mirror – windswept, dried tears, hair glued to the skull after four days of riding – I needed a long bath. At dinner I realized how tired I was. It was an effort to keep my eyes open. Slept like a baby.
Gyaan
1. Always wear protective gears while riding – helmet, knee pads (none of us had those), gloves, etc.
2. Never get frustrated when people, upon seeing your riding gear, start asking questions, however foolish. Always answer them politely. Most of them are locals, and drunk. Try not to get beaten up.
3. While riding in fog, it’s a good idea to find a big vehicle – a bus or a truck doing decent speed - and follow it. However, maintain a good distance between it and yourself. These vehicles are most prone to accidents. It will help you avoid getting pasted on their backsides.
4. Carry medicines, however short the distance or duration. I didn’t carry any, which let the mutiny in my digestive system get worse.
5. Avoid braking hard on mountain roads. Rely on reducing speed by lowering the gears.
6. Negotiate. Hotel prices, road-side mechanics, speed.
Acknowledgements
1. God – for the safe journey.
2. Wife - for the support and encouragement.
3. Parents - for not freaking out.
4. Co-riders – for the fun.
5. Jeetender Singh Gandhi – for letting me borrow his bike.
